→ 182km
↑ 5180m
♦ difficult
Start: AIROLO
Finish: BELLINZONA
Country: Switzerland
CLIMBS: GOTTHARD PASS (2091M)
PASSO SCIMFUSS (2244M)
PASSO DELL'UOMO (2218M)
CAPANNA ADULA (2012M)
CAPANNA GESERO (2000M)
A hut-to-hut journey through remote, scenic trails with challenging climbs along the way
Ticino is one of my favourite places to ride. Beyond the sunlit lakes and palm-lined promenades of the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland lies a wilder, more unexpected side I only discovered recently during a bikepacking event called Dead Ends e Dolci: dramatic peaks, quiet climbs, and flowing gravel trails tucked into hidden valleys that feel purpose-built for exploration. With every pedal stroke, the contrast between Mediterranean charm and Alpine adventure becomes more striking.
With the help of local expert and guide Stefano Bergamaschi from BikePort, I designed a three-day, hut-to-hut gravel bikepacking route to showcase the untamed beauty of northern Ticino. I then rode it with my friend Kaddy and yes - this alpine gravel biking tour delivered. From Airolo to Bellinzona, we enjoyed some of the best gravel biking Switzerland has to offer: great trails, ever-changing views, and climbs challenging enough to make us fully appreciate the local specialities we sampled along the way.
Sunset at Capanna Adula
There’s also something truly special about bikepacking from hut to hut. You leave the noise and chaos of everyday life behind and fall into a simple rhythm: ride beautiful trails, eat good food, sleep in remote places. It’s a form of simplicity that stays with you long after the trip is over.
Scroll down for the full route with gpx, maps, tips, descriptions and photos. If you’d like to dive deeper into how this three-day gravel bikepacking tour in Switzerland came to life - and what it felt like to ride it - you can read the accompanying blog article here.
Alain
Presented by
Riding along Lago Ritóm
Who is it for?
This experience suits riders with good fitness, basic off-road skills... and an adventurous mindset. The distances may look modest, but the terrain and elevation make it a challenging and deeply rewarding alpine gravel biking journey in Switzerland.
Highlights
- The iconic Tremola road with its cobbled switchbacks - a must-do for gravel and road cyclists in Switzerland
- Chestnut cake on the terrace of the Capanna Cadagno
- The wild Passo dell’Uomo gravel ascent followed by the bumpy descent to the Lukmanier Pass
- The view from the Capanna Adula
- The long descent from the Capanna Gesero to Bellinzona.
THE ROUTE
Chasing last light on the way down to Bellinzona
Day 1: Airolo to Capanna Cadagno
With Kaddy, we had arrived by train in Airolo the evening before. After a good night at the Hotel Forni, the day began with one of the most beautiful Alpine climbs: the Gotthard Pass via the legendary Via Tremola. I’ve ridden and photographed it countless times, but this was my first time on a gravel bike — perfect for smoothing out the old cobblestones that cover the final six kilometres and for enjoying the endless switchbacks that make this road so iconic.
At the top, after soaking in the lively chaos typical of big Alpine passes, we turned right onto a small road instead of dropping down toward Andermatt as usual. Our goal: the Passo Scimfuss, at 2,241 Meters, surrounded by a splendid high-mountain landscape. Apart from a few cyclists and hikers enjoying the same golden autumn day, we soon found ourselves completely alone.
Taking a break at Passo Scimfuss
The descent into the Val Canaria was steep and occasionally technical, but we managed to ride it all. When we reached the river, we chose to climb left on a steep hike-a-bike section to reach the road leading up to Lago Ritóm. If you prefer to stay on your bike, you can follow the SwissMobile MTB Route 65 — it descends to Valle and climbs back up again, adding about 200 metres of ascent.
Reaching the lake, its deep-blue waters shimmering in the afternoon light, a few final kilometres brought us to our destination for the night: Capanna Cadagno, a beautifully modern mountain hut in the Val Piora. Time to embrace hut life — a slice of cake and a beer on the terrace, soaking up the last rays of sun at the foot of majestic peaks, before settling into the dorm and enjoying a hearty polenta dinner prepared by the hut keeper and his team.
Main refuelling points: Gotthard Pass (km 13), Piora (km 34)
Accommodation the night before in Airolo: Hotel Forni
Mountain hut: Capanna Cadagno
Descending into Val Canaria
Day 2: Capanna Cadagno to Capanna Adula
Day two began in the warm light of the rising sun, heading towards the Passo dell’Uomo (2,210 Meters). The climb was almost entirely rideable for us, with just a short hike-a-bike section – but in such stunning surroundings, we hardly noticed the steep gradient.
The descent towards the Lukmanier Pass follows an old military road: bumpy, sometimes steep, but fully rideable with a bit of technique and incredibly scenic. In the distance, the waters of Lago di Sontga Maria shimmered in the morning light. After a coffee and cake break at the Hospice Santa Maria on the pass, we continued toward Olivone.
We chose to follow the marked MTB route and it was not our best idea. The terrain was too rough to be enjoyable on gravel bikes, and that’s coming from two riders who love a bit of underbiking! In our GPX track, we’ve only kept the sections we consider rideable, but it’s also perfectly fine to descend entirely on the paved road.
On the way to Passo dell'Uomo
In Olivone, we enjoyed the delicious sandwiches prepared by the hut keeper at Capanna Cadagno and stocked up for the long climb ahead - the last resupply opportunity of the day. Unfortunately, the beautiful gravel road leaving Olivone was blocked by a sizeable landslide, forcing us to take the main road and the Toïra tunnel to reach the base of the climb to the Luzzone dam.
At the top, we faced a guessing game to find the right tunnels - amongst seven (!) carved through the mountain in every direction - leading into the Val Carrasin. The final stretch, eight kilometres of gravel through this timeless valley, was magnificent but demanding as hunger began to set in.
Luckily, Capanna Adula awaited with beer and cake on the terrace, overlooking the Blenio Valley and the surrounding peaks. Dinner was hearty pizzoccheri, shared with hikers surprised to meet cyclists this high up - a perfect expression of what alpine gravel is all about.
Main refuelling points: Lukmanier Pass (km 10), Olivone (km 26),
Mountain hut: Capanna Adula CAS (not to be confused with Capanna Adula UTOE, located in the same area but not on the route)
On the way to the Luzzone dam
Day 3: Capanna Adula to Bellinzona
Leaving Capanna Adula, we opted for the direct way down, but a word of warning: this descent is well outside the scope of a typical gravel or bikepacking route. It involves around 75 minutes of hike-a-bike on a narrow, steep and rocky mountain trail, with zero riding.
I knew this trail from Dead Ends e Dolci and wanted to show it to Kaddy. We enjoyed the experience, but walking down this kind of terrain with a loaded bike is definitely not for everyone.
Unless this kind of hike-a-bike is specifically part of what you are looking for, we recommend backtracking to Olivone along the same road as the previous day, then following the main road down the Blenio Valley to rejoin the route. It’s just as beautiful... and no slower.
We reached Biasca on quiet backroads, passing through a string of charming little villages far from the traffic. Lunch was well-earned: delicious gnocchi followed by an espresso to celebrate our return to the lowlands.
From there, the route followed the Valle Leventina for about twenty kilometres. We explored a few side trails to scout potential off-road alternatives, not all worth recommending. The GPX track we’re sharing strikes, in our view, the right balance between flowy gravel sections and an efficient pace through the valley.
Starting the day with some hike-a-bike
Why the need to keep moving? Because a serious climb awaited: the ascent to Capanna Gesero with its 18 kilometres and over 1,600 metres of elevation gain. The gradient was relentless, winding up a quiet forest road, and of course, a final surprise was waiting near the top: a 1.5-kilometre hike-a-bike to reach the hut itself and, of course, stunning views as a reward.
After a well-deserved (non-alcoholic) beer, we had to descend before nightfall and return home. It was a pity: we would have loved to spend a third night in a mountain hut to justify that tough climb.
A good meal, a peaceful sleep, and a joyful descent to Bellinzona for a cappuccino before catching the train would have been the perfect way to keep enjoying Ticino a little longer - something we highly recommend.
Main refuelling points: numerous options up to Roveredo (55 km), then nothing until Capanna Gesero
Mountain hut: Capanna Gesero
Last effort before Capanna Gesero
TIPS
Recommended equipment
- A gravel bike (or MTB)
- Small gears (I used a 30x40)
- Minimum 45 mm tyres
- Gravel or MTB shoes with a grippy outsole as you will have to walk on the steepest and most technical sections
- Clothing suitable for rapidly changing alpine weather, plus essential emergency equipment in case conditions turn bad
- Front and rear lights for tunnels, alpine starts and possible late arrivals, depending on your pace.
When to go? The best season
Mountain huts are generally open from late May to mid-/late October. However, the route ventures several times above 2,000 meters, so always check snow conditions (especially in the spring), hut openings, and the weather forecast before you go.
For alpine gravel bikepacking in Ticino, late summer to early autumn usually offers the most stable conditions. But it’s all relative: we rode the tour in mid-September and it snowed a week after!
Access ad logistics
- Public transport: both Airolo and Bellinzona are major access points for gravel riding in Ticino and are easily reachable by train. Along the route, it is possible to catch a bus or train at multiple locations to take shortcuts. Timetable here or download the SBB app.
- GPX/KML: a GPX track is essential for navigating this bikepacking route.
- Refueling: you’ll find restaurants and grocery stores in most villages, but not on the long alpine climbs typical of gravel routes in the Swiss Alps. So… stock up before heading up.
- Accommodation: for the full hut-to-hut experience, stay in the mountain huts listed in the itinerary. Book your place in advance.
Interested in a guided trip?
Let us connect you to our network of guide services and tour operators. For more information about booking, contact:
Hut life at Capanna Adula
The famous cobbled switchbacks of the Tremola road
Chestnut cake at Capanna Cadagno
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